泰国游记与攻略(曼谷,华欣,涛岛,沙梅岛)Thailand Travel Journal and Guide (Bangkok, Hua Hin, Koh Tao, Koh Samui)

这篇是用于记录今年夏天的泰国之行。本来只想写一下涛岛浮潜就算了,但是想了想,觉得不如把泰国旅行全部写下来,也许对一些朋友或者读者有帮助。先声明一下,中文部分是我自己写的。英文部分靠翻译,当然我有审稿,而且每一段都有改动。

This is meant to document my summer trip to Thailand. Initially, I only planned to write about snorkeling in Koh Tao, but then I thought—why not record the entire journey? It might be helpful to some friends or readers. Just to clarify: the Chinese sections are written by me. The English parts are translated, but I’ve reviewed and edited every paragraph to make sure they’re accurate.

背景 background

本次旅行是全家一起的一共四个人,包括了一个10岁的小朋友。在华欣与我家亲戚汇合,他们对泰国比较熟悉,在华欣和曼谷一共是五个大人,三个小孩一起玩。

This trip was a family journey with four of us in total, including a 10-year-old child. We met up with some relatives in Hua Hin. They’re quite familiar with Thailand too. In Hua Hin and Bangkok, we traveled together as a group of five adults and three children.


曼谷 Bangkok

曼谷酒店 Hotels:

  • INNSiDE by Meliá Bangkok Sukhumvit 这家酒店如果在booking提前订的话,性价比非常高。大约就是每晚70欧左右可以拿下来,如果没有提前,那样也就90-100欧左右。服务可以说是十分满意。整个酒店给你一种大家都很在乎你,很开心的帮你忙的感觉。我们乘坐早班飞机,到达曼谷的时候是早上6-7点,酒店居然9点就给我们安排的入住,非常的贴心。房间也比较干净,住的比较舒适。位置也很不错,离onnut skytrain 出口走路估计五分钟不到。旁边还有大型lotus超市,买衣服局便宜。附近吃饭的地方也很多。缺点的话就是房间很小,只有区区20平米;虽然酒店是2023年新开的,感觉房间并不是很新。浴室控水不行,洗个澡出来地上满是水。
  • INNSiDE by Meliá Bangkok Sukhumvit If you book this hotel in advance on Booking.com, the value for money is excellent. You can get a room for as low as €70 per night, and even without booking early, it’s about €90–100. The service was simply GREAT. The whole hotel gives you the feeling that everyone genuinely cares about you and is happy to help. We arrived in Bangkok around 6–7 AM on an early flight, and the hotel actually let us check in at 9 AM—super thoughtful. The room was clean and comfortable. The location is great too, just under a five-minute walk from the On Nut Skytrain station. There’s a large Lotus supermarket across the stree, and clothes there are really nice (=cheap). Plenty of dining options nearby as well. Downsides: the room is small, only 20 square meters. Although the hotel opened in 2023, the room didn’t feel particularly new. The bathroom had poor water control—after a shower, the floor was soaked.
Bangkok InnSide Hotel restaurant view
InnSide Hotel Sukumvit Bangkok



  • hotel nikko bangkok 日本人开的酒店在干净卫生方面可以说是无可挑剔。早餐很好吃,选择很多,重要是有我最喜欢的纳豆😆酒店位置也很好,也是在skytrain旁边,周围有很多日式餐厅,酒店本身的餐厅看上去也很好。但是就是不知道是不是真的有人去吃。附近有好几家居酒屋,虽然对比起泰国菜算很贵,对于习惯了欧洲无理取闹的价格,这些所有日式餐厅的价钱都算是很合理的。酒店看起来并不是很豪华,主要是走低调务实的路线。令我有点觉得自己住了个便捷连锁酒店。不过人家是妥妥的五星。服务方便比不起热情的西班牙酒店Innside,但胜在房间大得多。浴室控水也是不咋地,洗个澡外面都是一片。难道日本客人就不投诉这事儿吗?
  • hotel nikko bangkok Run by Japanese management, this hotel is impeccable when it comes to cleanliness and hygiene. The breakfast was delicious with lots of variety—and most importantly, they had my favorite natto 😆. The location is also great, right next to the Skytrain, with many Japanese restaurants nearby. The hotel’s own restaurants looked nice too, though I’m not sure if people actually eat there. There are several izakayas (Japanese small restaurants serving alcohol) in the area. While they’re pricey compared to Thai food, for someone used to Europe’s outrageous prices, all the Japanese restaurants here felt quite reasonable. The hotel doesn’t look particularly luxurious—it leans more toward a low-key, practical style. It almost made me feel like I was staying in a budget chain hotel. But it’s definitely a proper five-star. The service isn’t as warm and enthusiastic as the Spanish-run INNSiDE, but the rooms are much larger. The bathroom water control was also poor—after showering, the floor was soaked. Do Japanese guests not complain about this?
  • 总体来说我对这两个酒店印象很好,下次回来可以再住。Anyway, I had a great impression of both hotels and would definitely consider staying again next time.
曼谷餐厅 Restaurants:
  • 因为我以前在泰国住过,可以讲泰语,而且也有我自己特别喜欢吃的泰国菜,我通常都是随便找个看起来比较干净的地方吃。我最喜欢吃泰国北方的菜,比如sub nomai (拌辣笋),lab blah(拌辣鱼)。这些并不是所有泰国餐厅都有的,这次回来没有吃到所有自己特别想吃的东西。
  • Since I used to live in Thailand and can speak Thai, and I also have some favorite Thai dishes I love, I usually just pick a place that looks relatively clean to eat. I especially love Northern Thai cuisine, like sub nomai (spicy fermented bamboo salad) and lab blah (spicy fish salad). Not all Thai restaurants serve these dishes, and this time I didn’t get to eat everything I was really craving.
  • Kai Yang Klang Krung (地址) 我亲戚推荐的餐厅,其实我自己没有去因为那天堵车我们临时决定就在附近吃点儿算了。但是其他同行朋友去了,说很好吃。虽然餐单只有泰语,而且服务员不太会讲英语,依靠google translate好像大家没啥问题。
  • Baan Klang Krung Restaurant Rama 3 (地址)也是我亲戚推荐的。估计由于亲戚是城里人,他们喜欢推荐一些‘城里 (Klang Krung)’的餐厅。这家我自己去吃了,很好吃。点了都是些很普遍的泰国菜,最好吃的是炸鱼,酥脆嫩滑。这家是有英文菜单的,不过服务员的英文好像也不过关。
  • Kai Yang Klang Krung (location) is a restaurant recommended by my relatives. I didn’t go myself because there was a traffic jam that day, so we decided to just eat somewhere nearby. But other friends who went said it was delicious. Although the menu is only in Thai and the staff don’t speak much English, using Google Translate seemed to work fine for everyone.

    Baan Klang Krung Restaurant Rama 3 (location) was also recommended by my relatives. I guess since they’re city folks, they like to recommend places in the city (“Klang Krung”). I went to this one myself and it was really good. We ordered some common Thai dishes, and the best one was the fried fish—crispy and tender. This place had an English menu, but the staff’s English wasn’t great either.

  • 不推荐 Baiyoke Crystal Grill @floor82 对于我一个老曼谷来说,这个餐厅简直是浪费我时间和感情。没有一样东西好吃的,而且价格跟我们阿姆斯特丹普通一家all you can eat 是一样的。整个酒店包括附近地区感觉很低档,鱼龙混杂的。那个什么旋转顶层根本没有必要去。顶楼酒吧脏脏的,就像90年代的中国。我感觉在Innside酒店看的夜景比他好不知多少。如果想看夜景去一个好的餐厅,我觉得还是le bua 不过我也是多年前去的,现在真不知道怎样了,反正当年觉得还是可以的。
  • Not recommended: Baiyoke Crystal Grill @floor82 As someone who knows Bangkok well, this restaurant was a complete waste of my time and energy. Nothing tasted good, and the price was the same as a regular all-you-can-eat place in Amsterdam. The whole hotel and surrounding area felt filthy and chaotic. That rotating rooftop thing is totally worthless. The top-floor bar was dirty and outdated—like something out of the 90s China. I felt the night view from the Innside hotel was way better. If you want a good restaurant with a view, I’d still suggest le bua, although I went years ago and don’t know what it’s like now. Back then, it was pretty decent.
  • 酒吧 没有什么可以推荐的酒吧,觉得也就是nana,asok附近的不错。第一天我不小心把我老公带到silom gay bar一条街了😅后来就在附近找了个jazz bar (Groovin High Jazz Bar)歌唱的倒是不错, 就是酒太贵,一晚上两个人光喝就喝了100欧。有点搞笑的是我们在曼谷一共泡过两个吧,两个生意都不咋地,泡到都是最后就剩我们自己了。走的时候看到旁边那些gogo bar 还人山人海,也不知道是不是说明我们泡了正经的吧。
  • Bars I don’t really have any bar recommendations—maybe just around Nana and Asok, which are okay. On the first day, I accidentally took my husband to the gay bar street in Silom 😅. Later, we found a jazz bar nearby (Groovin High Jazz Bar)—the singing was actually pretty good, but the drinks were way too expensive. The two of us spent €100 just on drinks that night. Kind of funny, during our time in Bangkok, we went to two bars, and both were pretty dead. By the end, we were literally the only ones left. As we were leaving, we saw the nearby gogo bars were absolutely packed with people. Not sure if that means we ended up at the “respectable” bars… 😅
曼谷游玩 activities
  • 我们在曼谷基本上是探亲访友,只去了两个地方玩。一个是蛇园 siam serpentarium,另外一个是Asiatique购物。蛇园感觉还不错,主要是全程空调,最后玩了一条很乖很干净的大蟒蛇。推不推荐就见仁见智了,毕竟不是人人都那么喜欢蛇的。
  • In Bangkok, we were mostly visiting family and friends, and only went to two places for fun: the Snake Farm and Asiatique for shopping. The Snake Farm was actually pretty nice—mainly because it was air-conditioned the whole way through 😄. At the end, we got to interact with a big python that was super calm and clean. Whether I’d recommend it really depends on the person. Afterall, not everyone’s into snakes.
曼谷租车 car rental
  • 在booking.com 和trip.com 都可以租,价格是大约30-40欧每天全包。我在网上看人家说可以让公司开到酒店,但是不知通过这些网站怎么弄。反正最后是我们自己把车接过来,然后又开回去的。因为曼谷堵车严重,还车这次超级累。本来17-20分钟的车程,硬是开了两个小时。
  • You can rent through online agents such as booking.com, with prices around €30–40 per day, all-inclusive. I saw at online forums that some people said you can have the company deliver the car to your hotel, but I’m not sure how to arrange that through those websites. Anyway, in the end we picked up the car ourselves and returned it ourselves. Because Bangkok traffic is so bad, returning the car was exhausting. What should’ve been a 17–20 minute drive ended up taking two full hours.

华欣 Huahin

华欣酒店 Hotels
  • 在华欣短短四晚住了三家酒店。首先住的是Huahin Amari Hotel,酒店价格非常便宜,只要60欧包早餐。我以为酒店会很差,结果意外发现比120欧每天的Holidy Inn要好的多。首先酒店房间很大很干净很舒适,虽说有点儿旧。早餐相对较简陋,但是也有泰国倮条(米线)。酒店挺大,服务也很好很泰式。
  • We stayed in three different hotels during our short four-night trip to Hua Hin. First stop: Huahin Amari Hotel The price was shockingly low: only €60 per night including breakfast. I expected it to be pretty bad, but to my surprise, it was way better than the €120-per-night Holiday Inn. The room was spacious, clean, and super comfortable, although a little bit outdated. Breakfast was on the simpler side, but they did have Thai rice noodles (kuay teow). The hotel itself is quite large, service was great, and had that warm Thai hospitality.

  • Holiday Inn 相比之下就有点那个了。说他凑数都有点勉为其难,唉。要不是因为小朋友们要去玩那个水上乐园,谁来住?酒店浴室藏着好多霉斑,虽然不认真看是看不出来的。酒店房间景色倒是不错,每个房间都有山景或者海景。早餐比较丰富。
  • Holiday Inn Compared to Amari, this one was… meh. Even calling it “passable” feels generous. Honestly, if it weren’t for the kids wanting to play at the water park, who would stay here? The bathroom had lots of mold spots, although hard to notice unless you really looked. On the plus side, the room views were nice, either mountain or sea views in every room. Breakfast was good with lots of choices. 
  • Sheraton Huahin Pranburi Villa 只能说这是本行程住的最美的酒店。这个酒店的客房全部都是villa 而且大多数都有单独的游泳池。我们订的是最大的两室间;一共300多平米,有凉亭,游泳池,室外沐浴,室外jacuzzi。服务也是一流的好。24小时可以叫人开golfcart来接。最重要的是酒店的生态环境真的好,到处是绿植,花鸟,青蛙,小鱼,还有松鼠。晚上在泳池旁边吃个龙眼,喝杯冰啤,游个泳,聊个天,别提多舒畅了。唯一美中不足的是这个酒店的卫生有些许堪忧,在房间以及游泳池旁的沙发上发现有壁虎屎。房间里其中有一瓶水的盖子上发现的。还有一个房间的床单上我看到有没洗干净的血迹。真是糟蹋了这么好的酒店。
  • Sheraton Huahin Pranburi Villa  This was hands down the most beautiful hotel of the trip. All rooms are villas, and most come with private pools. We booked the largest two-bedroom villa—over 300 square meters, complete with a gazebo, swimming pool, outdoor shower, and outdoor jacuzzi. The service was top-notch. You could call for a golf cart pickup 24/7. The best part was the natural environment, lush greenery, birds, frogs, fish, squirrels. Sitting by the pool at night, eating longan, sipping cold beer, swimming, chatting… it was pure bliss.
  • The only downside? Cleanliness. We found gecko droppings on the sofa near the pool and even on a water bottle cap in the room. One of the bedsheets had a bloodstain that hadn’t been properly washed out. Such a shame for a hotel this stunning.




Beautiful lotus

View from the swimming pool 



华欣餐厅 restaurants
  • 本次在华欣没去什么特别的餐厅,以前我在chaam附近吃过很好吃的海鲜。但是这次由于时间问题没有去。华欣本地在市中心其实也有不错的餐厅。
  • This time in Hua Hin, we didn’t go to any particularly special restaurants. I’ve had really delicious seafood near Cha-am before, but we didn’t go there this time due to time constraints. Hua Hin’s city center actually has some pretty good local restaurants too.
  • 从Kui Buri National Park开车回华欣途中看到有个德国人开的餐厅,布置得很别致。东西也挺好吃。就是有个怪事儿,这个人似乎养了一只大老鼠。我看到他们有个挺好的咖啡机,有点想喝咖啡。结果坐在餐厅看到一只打老鼠爬到咖啡机,然后翻墙又爬回去了。我怕恶心着其他人,就没说话。我走近咖啡机,发现老鼠瞪着大眼睛在墙后面的窗户里也盯着我看呢。这时我发现挂在咖啡机上方有张这位德国老警察的画像,居然他肩上就趴了这只大老鼠!还是因为怕恶心着其他人,我就没有向他追问,默默地走开了。
  • On our drive back to Hua Hin from Kui Buri National Park, we passed a restaurant run by a German guy. The place was charmingly decorated, and the food was actually quite good. But something strange happened. 
  • This man seemed to be keeping a giant rat(!) as a pet. I noticed they had a nice espresso machine, and I was thinking about getting a coffee. But while sitting in the restaurant, I saw this big rat climb onto the coffee machine, then scurry over the wall and disappear. I didn’t say anything because I didn’t want to gross anyone out.
  • Curious, I walked closer to the coffee machine. And there it was, staring at me with wide eyes from behind the window in the wall. Then I noticed a portrait hanging above the machine: it was of the German man, apparently a retired police officer, and on his shoulder sat that very same rat!
  • Still worried about disturbing the others, I didn’t ask him about it. I just quietly walked away.
华欣游玩 activities 
  • 主要去了水上公园。我女儿倒是很喜欢,但是玩了一天也就够了。我觉得最好是住在amari酒店,然后买个门票去玩水上世界。
  • We didn’t go anywhere else—just the water park. My daughter really enjoyed it, but one full day was enough. I think the best option is to stay at the Amari hotel and just buy a ticket to spend a day at Vana Nava Water Jungle.
  • 还去了一个国家公园Kui Buri National Park,里面有300多头大象。虽然我在泰国见过很多大象,在野外看还是第一回。我们当天并不是很幸运,只遥远的看到了两头。而且那天很热,小孩都吵着要回家,最后有点意兴阑珊。不过当然,我不代表其他人,其他人觉得还是很值得地。Google上面找的Kui Buri National Park 的地址并不是看大象的点,要去一个叫做 elephant observation site 的地方,到了Kui Buri National Park 还要开20分钟左右。路上满地是龙眼。本来想停下来捡点,结果回程太累睡着了没捡成。
  • We also visited Kui Buri National Park, which is home to over 300 elephants. Although I’ve seen plenty of elephants in Thailand before, this was my first time spotting them in the wild. That day, we weren’t particularly lucky, we only saw two elephants from a distance. Plus, it was really hot, and the kids kept complaining that they wanted to go home, so by the end, our enthusiasm had kind of fizzled out.
  • But of course, that’s just my personal experience. Others in the group still felt it was totally worth it.The address for Kui Buri National Park found on Google isn’t actually the spot where you can see elephants. You need to go to a place called the elephant observation site, which is about a 20-minute drive from the main entrance of Kui Buri National Park. Along the way, the ground was covered with longans. I originally wanted to stop and pick some, but I was too tired on the way back and fell asleep. so I missed the chance.
Wild elephant


涛岛 Koh Tao

其实去涛岛的路没有那么难,关键是得有时间。从曼谷可以坐巴士,打车或者自驾到chumphon,然后换乘一趟船。我们选择的是自驾,车就停在码头的停车场。如果只去涛岛,这样的行程最好。但我们还去了沙梅,本来想先乘船回来拿车,然后再把车开进去沙梅。后来发现这样干比较费时间,因为冲chumphon 码头到surat thani 码头要开4个小时,中途还得坐两次各两小时的船。最后我们决定就把车停在码头,到了沙梅再租一辆车。这样就多花了大约200欧,但是省了辛苦和时间,我们觉得还是挺值得的。

Getting to Koh Tao isn’t that difficult. The key is having enough time. From Bangkok, you can take a bus, taxi, or drive yourself to Chumphon, then transfer to a ferry. We chose to drive and parked the car at the pier. If you’re only going to Koh Tao, this kind of itinerary works best.

But we also went to Koh Samui. Originally, we planned to take the ferry back to pick up the car, then drive to Samui. Later we realized that would be too time-consuming, since driving from Chumphon Pier to Surat Thani Pier takes about 4 hours, plus two ferry rides of 2 hours each. In the end, we decided to just leave the car at the pier and rent another one once we got to Samui. That cost us around €200 extra, but it saved us a lot of effort and time. So we felt it was worth it.

涛岛酒店 Hotels 
  • 涛岛的酒店感觉好像都不咋样。我们住的是Tanote Villa. 这个酒店就地点来说简直堪称完美。因为我们来koh tao 就是要浮潜和潜水的。酒店走路下去,只要五分钟左右就是Tanote beach,这里有好多活着的珊瑚,各种各样的鱼,还有海龟。每天我们早上起来第一件事就是浮潜,浮潜完了再回酒店吃早餐。这里见到了好多鱼,这是后话。酒店房间的设施比较简陋,但有空调,也还算干净。酒店有两个游泳池,所以我们一整天都泡在水里。白天浮潜晚上泡游泳池,非常惬意。酒店有免费浮潜工具供应。服务也很好。自然环境就不用说。有天我们在游泳池还遇到了一条无毒小蛇。
  • The hotels on Koh Tao don’t seem particularly impressive. We stayed at Tanote Villa, which, location-wise, feels like perfect, since our main goal in coming to Koh Tao was snorkeling and diving. From the hotel, it’s just about a five-minute walk down to Tanote Bay, where you’ll find vibrant coral reefs, all kinds of fish, and even sea turtles. Every morning, the first thing we did was snorkel. After 1-2 hours, we’d head back to the hotel for breakfast. We saw so many fish there, but that’s a story for the next post. 
  • The room itself was pretty basic, but it had air conditioning and was reasonably clean. The resort has two swimming pools, so we were basically in the water all day. Snorkeling during the day and relaxing in the pool at night. It was incredibly chill. The hotel also provide free snorkeling gear, and the service was great. The natural surroundings speak for themselves. One day, we even spotted a harmless little snake by the pool!
Tanote Villa at Koh Tao
Tanote Villa at Koh Tao


涛岛餐厅 Restuarant
  • 完全无法推荐。只有不咋地,难吃和特别难吃之分。我来之前有个朋友说Koh Tao的餐厅很好吃,也许她住在Sairee beach吧;在Tanote Beach,我们没有找到好吃的地方,煮的都很咸。感觉每个菜都是直接用海水煮的。没办法,只有那几个餐厅,就凑活吃。价格比曼谷,沙梅岛还贵。真的很过分。我们就去了一次Sairee beach,那边的餐厅可能好一些,因为有点儿竞争。但是岛上没有租车,只能开摩托和打车。打车打的是那种皮卡改装,坐在车后座。一点儿不便宜,一趟就要300-500 泰铢。
  • Totally not recommendable. The food ranged from mediocre to bad to downright awful. Before I came, someone told me the restaurants on Koh Tao were great. Maybe she stayed near Sairee Beach. At Tanote Beach, we couldn’t find any good places to eat; everything was overly salty. It felt like every dish had been boiled in seawater. There weren’t many restaurant options either, so we just had to make do. Prices were even higher than in Bangkok or Koh Samui, which felt really unreasonable. We only went to Sairee Beach once, and the restaurants there might be better since there’s at least some competition. But the island doesn’t have rental cars: only motorbikes and taxis. The taxis are converted pickup trucks where you sit in the back, and they’re not cheap: each ride costs about 300–500 baht.
涛岛浮潜 snorkeling at Koh Tao 
这是目前为止我最喜欢的海滩浮潜,Tanote Bay 人不是很多,只有附近几个酒店入住的人可以进来。我们第一天到沙滩去看,看到一片黑压压的东西,我认为是海草,没想到走过去发现海草居然可以移动,在认真一看,原来是一群鱼!这就开启了我们每天浮潜的旅程。我感觉Tanote Bay比其他几个海滩的珊瑚和鱼都多。我还独自一人跟海龟游了一段时间,看着它吃东西,觉得真可爱。它也看着我,也许一样的心态。

除了tanote bay,KohTao到处都是鱼,好些地方死了很多珊瑚。最后一天我们跟了个浮潜团到处去看了看,又看到了另外一只海龟(有人说Koh Tao生活了两只海龟,这次我都遇到了)。还有小鲨鱼。有个地方叫做 Koh Nang Yuan, 大家都说最美。可惜游客太多,好些死珊瑚。但是水底景色还是很美的,有好大的珊瑚礁。

This has been my favorite snorkeling spot so far: Tanote Bay. It’s not crowded; only guests from a few nearby hotels have access to the beach. On our first day, we walked down to the shore and saw a dark patch in the water. I thought it was seaweed, but as I got closer, I realized it was moving. Looking more carefully, I saw! it was a school of fish! That moment kicked off our daily snorkeling adventure.

I felt that Tanote Bay had more coral and fish than the other beaches we visited. I even swam alone with a sea turtle for a while, watching it eat. It was adorable. It looked back at me too—maybe we were both just curious.

Beyond Tanote Bay, Koh Tao is full of fish, though many areas have dead coral. On our last day, we joined a snorkeling tour to explore more spots. We saw another sea turtle (some say there are only two living around Koh Tao—looks like I met both!). We also spotted baby black tip sharks.





沙梅岛Samui 

去沙梅岛之前我想象中是漂亮整洁的白沙滩,就跟Aruba一摸一样的那种。来到才知道,其实跟aruba还是有差距。Aruba的海滩说实话比沙梅美丽很多,而且到处都可以浮潜。沙梅就不行,都是白沙滩。不过我也没有在沙梅浮潜,因为去沙梅前一天晒伤了。我有个朋友特别喜欢沙梅,每年都要回去,重复了大约有10年之久。跟他的感觉不一样,我觉得沙梅没啥好玩的地方。我去一次觉得就够了。

有人说沙梅是背包客发现的,所以没有什么泰国人来玩,都是外国人。沙梅的美好之处也许我们没有时间看透。沙梅岛有点现代城市与泰国本地文化冲突的存在。有很多游客的地方都聚集在机场附近的市中心,在岛内却还有很多未开发的山地。岛内居民也很淳朴。这天我来到lamai沙滩,开始下朦朦细雨,看到有个男人牵着他的老牛,慢慢的走到海边。也许是太热,他想让牛在海上泡一下。他眼神忧郁的看着老牛;已经是下午黄昏时分,一人一牛享受这静默的时光。附近的游客已经慢慢散去,只有远处的快艇还在收拾最后的残局。也许只有他和牛见证了沙梅的变化。不知道是福是祸,总之顺流逆流, 随遇而安。

Before going to Koh Samet, I imagined pristine, white sandy beaches, just like those in Aruba. But once I arrived, I realized there’s quite a difference. Honestly, Aruba’s beaches are much more beautiful, and you can snorkel almost anywhere. Koh Samet, on the other hand, is mostly just white sand beaches without much snorkeling. I didn’t snorkel there myself because I got sunburned the day before arriving.

I have a friend who absolutely loves Koh Samet—he goes back every year and has been doing so for nearly a decade. But my experience was quite different. I didn’t find much to do there, and for me, one visit was enough.

Some say Samui was first discovered by backpackers, which is why few Thai locals vacation there. Most visitors are foreigners. Perhaps we didn’t have enough time to discover and appreciate Samui’s beauty. The island feels like a place where modern urban life clashes with traditional Thai culture. Tourist hotspots are clustered around the airport, yet much of the island remains undeveloped, with rugged hills and untouched nature. The local residents are simple and kind-hearted.

One day, I visited Lamai Beach. A light drizzle began to fall. I saw a man slowly leading his old ox toward the sea. Maybe it was too hot, and he wanted the ox to cool off in the water. He gazed at the animal with a melancholic look. It was late afternoon, and the two of them—man and ox—shared a quiet moment by the shore. Tourists had mostly dispersed, and only a distant speedboat was tidying up the last remnants of the day.

Perhaps only he and the ox have truly witnessed the changes Samui has undergone. Whether those changes are a blessing or a curse, who can say? In the end, whether the tide flows forward or back, we simply go with it.


A man and his cow in the rain, Koh Samui Lamai Beach

沙梅酒店 Hotels

  • 我们在沙梅住的不是酒店,算是个两室一厅的villa,带花园和私人游泳池。又是个德国人开的公寓 Chuan Chom Villa。设计比较现代,很干净。有车的话去哪儿都很方便。走路大约20分钟可以到Lamai Beach, 去市场也很近。唯一美中不足是这是个小公司,有各种各样的罚款条例,比如床单毛巾被弄脏了要赔钱。还有就是电费不包括在房费里,这个倒是挺好的。毕竟你不用被他天天监视,调查你用电开空调情况。这个酒店没有website,只能通过booking订,不过如果读者们想订的话我可以转告酒店老板的电话号码。
  • We didn’t stay in a hotel on Koh Samui. It was more like a two-bedroom apartment with a living room, garden, and private swimming pool. Chuan Chom Villa was run by a German owner. The design was quite modern and everything was very clean. Having a car made getting around super convenient. It was about a 20-minute walk to Lamai Beach, and the local market was also nearby.

  • The only downside was that it was a small business with all sorts of penalty rules. For example, you’d have to pay if you stained the sheets or towels. Also, electricity wasn’t included in the room rate, which honestly wasn’t a bad thing. At least this way, you don’t need to be constantly monitored and investigated on how often you run the air conditioning. This hotel does not have a website. You can book through booking.com, but I can also give you the owner's telpehone number. 
Chuan Chom Villa private pool

Chuan Chom Villa day time




沙梅餐厅 Restaurants

  • 沙梅餐厅比涛岛好多了,而且也很便宜。海鲜也可以。在Welcome to Mr.Jeff 那条街一共有四家海鲜餐厅,我们试了两家,觉得Mr.Jeff相对要更好吃。烤鱼不错,就是烤鱿鱼感觉过火了有点儿硬。还有一家是我们Villa老板娘自己开的餐馆 Thai Kitchen,主打特色泰国菜,也挺好吃,觉得老板娘是非常用心的做菜。我个人最喜欢的一家是吃Issan菜的 (ร้านภูไท รสแซ่บสาขาสมุย),短短几天去了两次,现在看看餐单,还觉得有些东西没吃,有点遗憾。这家菜馆没有英文名,只有泰语;但是老板能说英语。来吃的都是泰国人居多,外国人较少。其他那几家基本上都是外国人在吃。
  • The restaurants on Koh Samui were much better than those on Koh Tao,and also cheaper. The seafood was good too. On the street where Welcome to Mr.Jeff is located, there are four seafood restaurants. We tried two of them and felt that Mr. Jeff’s was the tastier option. The grilled fish was great, though the grilled squid was a bit overcooked and tough.
  • Thai Kitchen restaurant  was run by the owner of our villa and specialized in Thai dishes. It was good, the taste is complex. You could tell she really put care into her cooking.
  • My personal favorite was a place that served Issan cuisine (ร้านภูไท รสแซ่บสาขาสมุย). We went there twice in just a few days, and looking back at the menu, I regret not trying more dishes. The restaurant didn’t have an English name—only Thai—but the owner spoke English. Most of the customers were Thai locals, with very few foreigners. The other restaurants were mostly filled with tourists.
  • 沙梅岛上种了巨多榴莲,岛上到处可见榴莲树,榴莲店。像我们这么喜欢吃榴莲的,算是来对地方啦。随便路边买个小榴莲才100多点泰铢。就地吃了步行回酒店,不亦乐乎!
  • Koh Samui is absolutely packed with durians. There are durian trees and durian shops everywhere. For durian lovers like us, it felt like we’d come to the right place! You could just grab a small durian from a roadside stand for a little over 100 baht. We’d eat it right there and then stroll back to the hotel, pure bliss!
沙梅游玩 Activities 

  • 沙梅租车非常方便,打电话就能办到。我们还是租了budget 的车,一天大约400泰铢,保险全包,还包送到你手上。走的时候打个电话他们来拿。当时他们还说在路上有别的事情干,让我们不要锁车,钥匙放车上就可以,可见Koh samui 安全性很高。
  • Renting a car in Koh Samui is incredibly convenient—you just make a phone call and it’s all arranged. We ended up renting from Budget; it cost about 400 baht per day, fully insured, and they even delivered the car right to us. When we were ready to return it, we simply called and they came to pick it up. They even told us they had other errands to run on the way, so we didn’t need to lock the car—just leave the keys inside. That really says a lot about how safe Koh Samui is.
  • 由于在涛岛严重晒伤,在沙梅我就没有再去游泳浮潜,每天就在villa里的泳池。突然有一天想起来去染发,在google上找了一家叫做cheese salon的。老板娘非常实诚,给我的价格都跟泰国本地人一样,剪发技术也很高超。我做染发加Keratin 一共才花了不到200欧。因为觉得她把我头发做的非常好,最后我又拉了我两个女儿去剪了头发。他们一样也很满意。
  • Because I got seriously sunburned on Koh Tao, I didn’t go swimming or snorkeling on Koh Samui. I just stayed in the villa’s pool every day. Then one day, I suddenly felt like getting my hair dyed, so I searched on Google and found a place called cheese salon. The owner was incredibly nice; she gave me the same prices as local Thai customers, and her haircutting skills were excellent. I got a hair dye and keratin treatment, and it cost me less than €200 in total. I was so impressed with how well she did my hair that I ended up bringing my two daughters there for haircuts too. They were just as happy with the results.
  • 我老公和大女儿去潜了两天水。潜水机构(discovery divers)听说我们去koh tao没有潜水都惊呆了😂😂我老公解释说希望用在koh tao的时间多做浮潜,他都没听进去。不过Samui潜水机构感觉比较正式,都要去查他们的PADI证书,去了两个地方,一个是Sail Rock,另外一个是离Koh Tao很近,在Koh Tao和chumphon之间的。这里好多鱼,他们都很高兴。我会把照片和视频发在浮潜那个post里面。
  • My husband and our eldest daughter went diving for two days. The dive shop (discovery divers) was shocked when they heard we didn’t go diving on Koh Tao 😂😂. My husband explained that we wanted to spend more time snorkeling while on Koh Tao, but they didn’t really listen. The dive shop on Samui felt more professional; they even checked their PADI certifications. They went to two dive sites: one was Sail Rock, and the other was close to Koh Tao, located between Koh Tao and Chumphon. There were so many fish there, and they were both really happy. I’ll post the photos and videos in the snorkeling post.
  • 在沙梅的最后一天还玩了一会儿e-foiling (Mahalo). 老板也不是本地人,是个波兰人;玩得很溜。有一点觉得要提一下,半小时学不了多少东西,感觉最好是玩一两小时。不过据说很累,还很伤膝盖。
  • On our last day in Samui, we tried e-foiling for a bit (Mahalo). The owner wasn’t local either, he’s from Poland and he’s really skilled at it. One thing worth mentioning: you don’t learn much in just half an hour. It feels like it’s better to do it for one or two hours to really get the hang of it. But apparently, it’s quite exhausting and tough on the knees.

总体来说,Koh Tao 和Koh Samui都有很多游客。可以说这两个岛感觉是为了游客而存在的。但是我对涛岛的游客一点都不介意,有种发现世外桃源的感觉。沙梅我不是非常喜欢, 可能是因为晒伤不能再游泳的原因,我感觉在岛上没啥事儿可干的。相比起涛岛天天外出看鱼看珊瑚,我都觉得去沙梅浪费时间。

Overall, both Koh Tao and Koh Samui are full of tourists. so many that it feels like these islands practically exist for tourism. But I didn’t mind the crowds on Koh Tao at all; it actually felt like discovering a hidden paradise. I wasn’t too fond of Koh Samui, though. Maybe it was because I got sunburned and couldn’t swim anymore, which made it feel like there wasn’t much to do on the island. Compared to Koh Tao, where I went out every day to see fish and coral, Koh Samui felt like a bit waste of time.


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